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What does organic really mean? A look at the origins and organic cosmetics today

By Dr Barbara Olioso

If you look at websites selling natural and organic skin care, you will notice many brands using the term "organic". Some are certified by a certification body, such as the Soil Association, some are apparently using certified organic ingredients and others are using the word organic to kind a mean 'of nature'.
So what does organic mean to a green chemist developing natural and organic cosmetics? Dr Barbara Olioso gives her views on this hot topic to give you the clarity to make aware choices.

Organ-ic, the literal meanings
Organic means literally organ, from organized living beings and it derives from the latin word arganon, musical instrument. In 1942 it acquired the meaning free from pesticides and fertilizers, being referred to crops farmed according to organic standards. It is easy to understand the confusion about this term as it means related to nature as well as free from pesticides and fertilisers.

The four principles behind the organic movement and its original spirit
The organic farming movement which is at the origin of the whole organic trend we are living today has four important principles at its foundation:
Health, to sustain and enhance the health of soil, plant, animal, human and planet as one and indivisible
Ecology, being aware of living ecological systems and cycles, to work with them, to emulate them and to help sustain them.
Fairness to build on relationships that ensure fairness with regard to the common environment and life opportunities
Care to manage in a precautionary and responsible manner to protect the health and well-being of current and future generations and the environment.
Source: IFOAM (International Federation of Organic Agriculture Movement)

Organic beauty standards and organic cosmetics
Organic farming has international standards internationally recognized and harmonised, but there is no official definition applicable to cosmetics and beauty products, as there is no unanimity on how to define them. That is why it is a little bit of a jungle out there with several certifying bodies interpreting organic cosmetics their own way and also brands using the organic claim. What is the difference? If no certification is present the organic claim could be referred to simply natural ingredients or to organic certified ingredients, where no specification is made about:
-what percentage is present (it could be from a tiny bit up to 100%)
-the nature of the other ingredients present.
When an organic certification is present it means the product complies with some organic standards which:
-guarantee the amount of organic ingredients (in the UK there are 2 systems: 70% plus and 95% plus)
-regulate the non organic ingredients (such as preservatives, herbal extracts, and other cosmetic ingredients that are nature derived)
The way the non organic ingredients are regulated differ from a certifying body to another, with some organizations stricter than others in the choice of non organic ingredients. As there are a few around, there are a few standards: Soil Association, Organic Food Federation, Organic Farmers and Growers, Ecocert, Cosmebio, Demeter or BDAA, AIAB, BFA, USDA etc.

Organic cosmetics, strengths and challenges
Organic certified cosmetics are developed aiming to provide products that are close to nature as much as possible, but how close can we get and at what price? Organic certified ingredients are much more expensive than ordinary ones and have stronger odour and colour. The organic certification for finished products also adds a cost, and it does not have a universal meaning. What then?
My solution is Forest Secrets skin care, a range taking the best of the organic spirit without compromising on purity and performance. Forest Secrets products do not contain any of the preservatives you might find in organic cosmetics and its natural ingredients have fantastic anti ageing properties that are scientifically proven. You will not be able to find organic certified products with powerful antiaging claims as the organic standards do not allow that. To find out about how to get the best out of nature visit our products benefits page

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